A day of the hum drum and wows is how we would characterize it. The day started well enough, taxi ride to the airport. It makes you annoyed when a cabbie takes you for a ride and you are a local. They seem to aim for the $20 mark, or more, no matter what, or so it felt throughout the trip. That said, we made it on time and then killed time until our flight boarded. I got to talk to my dad and catch up on all the details from his perspective. Then the adventure was on! Yay!

The humidity sat on you as soon as you left the cool, crisp, terminal. Our first taxi adventure gave me flash backs to my trip to central America. These cabbies have a mission and no driver is going to break their rhythm. It was all good as we approached the Miami skyline and our hotel as well. The Epic, was, epic. From the moment we pulled in and Michael, the door man opened the cab door we were being taken care of. Our name? Called the front desk so they knew we had arrived. Did we want our bags to go straight upstairs? No problem. The front desk girl, Farrah, was very sweet and welcomed us to the hotel. She informed us that we would be in a Junior Suite (huge upgrade!) and that if we needed anything we had but to ask. Oh yeah.

Michael took us upstairs explaining how to use the elevator security system to get to our floor (no riff raff, please), and ushering us into the suite. Uh, wow. I think only the pictures can come close to doing it justice and not even those. He apologised for it not being larger, but it was pretty nice. And indeed it was as he explained the features (huge bathroom, TV that swung from sitting area to bedroom, balcony, bathroom, mini-bar, daily turn down service, buttons and lights for privacy or maid service… the list seemed to go on and on. On top of that, he was from Boston, so when he found out Jen was from New Hampshire he was extra nice and friendly. We often talked to him on our way in or out of the hotel each day and he’d offer advice on where to go to do whatever it was we were doing. Cool.

Now started our experiment period. We poked buttons and turned on faucets and stood on balconies and ran around like kids. We were both starving, but it was a little early for dinner so the obvious choice was a burger and fries to split from room service. Ding! Oh yeah was it yummy. We flipped through the channels and then took a walk to the magical 16th floor. On the 16th floor you could find the outdoor terrace complete with two infinity pools, and the Area 31 restaurant. The view was fantastic from here and could look down to the Miami river and follow it and the skyline all the way into the bay. Around us were the new and changing downtown skyline growing with new shiny buildings. We could only imagine what it cost to own a condo in one. We never got tired of this view and as you will see I took about 1 million photos from up here. On the other side of the hall was the full fitness room, yoga studio, and the pools for the tenants. Yup, there are condos in the building from the 3rd floor all the way to the 15th. The first and 16-30 are all hotel. Nice.

We returned to our room, and after a bit of messing about in the room, we changed and headed back to Area 31 for dinner. In the growing twilight, the skyline twinkling in the background, warm breeze settling around us, we toasted our new marriage and the start of our mini-moon. Cocktails were in order and I was impressed. A dirty vodka martini (or Dirty Bradford for you purists) is a crisp drink that often goes good or bad. This one was perfect… so much so I asked our waiter to complement the bartender. Jen had a drink called a Papa Doble which was also quite good. Now, you will quickly see that we went full on foodie for this trip. Our main goal was to relax and enjoy and that we did. So, starting off with oysters on the half for me and tiradito (a cerviche) of snapper, hearts of palm, coconut, lemongrass, and cherry tomatoes for Jen was a great move. Neither Jen nor I had ever had ceviche before even though we’ve certainly been aware of it. This was excellent. Such light, but rounded flavors of citrus. The taste of the fish came through nicely. Now, my oysters… were phenomenal. Marinated in golden balsamic, alligator pepper, and a dash of sea salt. My mouth is watering right now. Three were simply not enough and I greatly regret not going back for more of these during our stay.

The main course was mahi mahi with a salimorilio of olive oil, and lemon herb for Jen, and fettuccine with rock lobster with tomato, white wine, and opal basil for me. Again, amazing. Every bite was a job. For dessert we had chocolate pots de creme of caramel and blood orange. Astounding. The chocolate was of a density and texture that was firm, but melted in your mouth. The variety of flavors with each bite made you long for the next. Our hats off the the chef.

We spent as much time just being in the moment as we could before the warm breezes blew us back to the suite. Another full day awaited us.

The day started off lazily with blue skies and 80 degree temps. Shower and dress and we are off to Area 31 for breakfast. Its not every day that you get to munch bacon and eggs and have Sir Richard Branson stop by your table. Well, maybe not stop, he stood next to us chatting with a suit. He was just like you see in the pictures: blond mane, jeans and white button down. He mosied on with our best wishes and disappeared past the pool.

Ah, the pool! It was time. We headed upstairs, collected our stuff, suited up and headed down to the amazing infinity pools. Greeted immediately by the staff we had our choice of lounges which were draped with towels, water with orange slices were quickly delivered thereafter. Ahhh. A bit of a breezy day on the 16th floor but worth the dip and the sun kept things just warm enough. It was a perfect time spent reading and watching the world go by. The frozen fruit skewers we were offered were not a bad accoutrement either.

About 2ish we became peckish and decided to find some lunch. Between breakfast and the pool this morning we had ventured out into the nearby streets in search of a memory card for Jen’s camera. Walking through the mix of downtown office and slightly seedy we returned to a cafe. Or as Jen would point out, a creperie. The owner of Cafe Bastille saw us peering at the menu and ushered us in. And we were glad that he did. Absolutely yummy, fresh, crepes with fresh veggies, chicken, cheese, with a side of french bread. Just what the Dr. ordered.

From there it was time to wander the town a bit so we set off for Bayside. Crossing with the lights is highly recommended. Once across Biscayne Blvd it was an easy stroll amongst the palm trees along the bay. People sat in Adirondack chairs in a sandy park while others strolled, like us, towards the touristy mall and food overlooking the yachts. The Hard Rock required a quick stop of pins for Jen’s family, and then it was time for a little shopping for some good Miami threads. Especially since my sweetie needed a good bit of space in the suitcase for, uh, whatever it is that women need. All in all Bayside was just another tourist spot. A little dirty, a little creepy, but also interesting. Miami seems to be a constant juxtaposition of have and have not.

Our return walk had us stopping at the comfy Adirondack chairs and relaxing. Looking at the bay in the setting sun we could see dolphins and what we think was a manatee, all of which disappeared when the cigarette boat and jet ski went roaring by. Sigh. That signalled our time to continue our walk along the water and back towards the Epic. Women dressed for an outdoor yoga event walking their tiny dogs along the promenade. The Miami river flows into the bay and the Epic sits just up from where they meet. On our walk back we spotted several of the local, chi chi, restaurants that are in the ground floor of the hotels. We knew we needed to get dressed up so up we went and then back down. First stop was the 16th floor where we missed the free wine happy hour, by, uh, an hour. The 1st floor held more promise emptying us onto the street as cars zoomed into the circle for a fundraising event being held in the attached lounge. We sashayed down the street to the outside bar of  Miami’s Chophouse. Ruby Red with grapefruit juice and a mango pisco sour started the evening right. Cool breeze and conversation held us steady while we waited for dinner.

Inside, quickly seated we were treated exceptionally. Although I nearly choked on the prices on the wine list, we picked a suitable St. Francis old vine zinfandel whose aroma tickled the senses as soon as it was released from the bottle into the glass. The savory smells wafted across the table. Wow. The food flowed in generous and succulent succession. Caesar salad with real anchovies on top, the best I think I have eaten. Then the main course of NY strip for me, petite fillet for her, baked potato and sauteed mushrooms. A NY a hand and half large was more than I could handle but I did it good service none the less. Everything was delectable including the simple ice cream sundae for dessert. The bottle of zin fought a losing battle as dinner rolled to its conclusion with a near $200 price tag.

Thankfully we were within stumbling distance to the Epic, which we did with aplomb, finishing our evening wrapped in each others arms for a restful night’s sleep.

Today was another lazy start… OK, so they have all been lazy starts and that is the way it is supposed to be on your honeymoon. We decided to go all in today so we started off with breakfast in bed. Brioche French toast (surprise) with fruit for me and eggs and chicken sausage for Jen. Not to mention all the extras that come along with it. Satiated, we got dressed and caught a cab to the Miami beach area starting with the shops along Lincoln road. Our cabbie felt we shouldn’t bother with the street everyone had told us was a place to see, and instead turn right and head towards the beach. So glad we did. White sand and blue waters greeted us as we strolled along.There was only one topless sighting on the only US beach allowing it. After a time, and with the help of Droid+Googlemaps, we veered out back towards the streets so we could stroll along Espanola Way. A pretty little street with shops and restaurants all done in classic Spanish architecture with a strong Cuban (say: Coo-Ban) flair. A margarita and pina colada seemed appropriate at 2 in the afternoon with our chicken quesadilla.

With a bit of a wobble we started off back into the streets moving between Washington Ave. and Ocean Drive, checking out the art deco architecture, the little shops, and the people. Again, the flavor of Miami is diversity in all ways and creates a unique feel. The Art Deco Welcome Center was closed until February, but it helped orient us. Catching a random side street we found a swim suit shop where Jen tried and bought her first bikinis. Where else but Miami? The sales girls were nice and we chatted with one who had just arrived two weeks before from Chicago. Now there is a switch. Some other quick window browsing and it was back to the beach. Public changing houses, although a tad grody, allowed Jen to change, and then it was along the beach we went in style, soaking in the warm rays of the mid afternoon sun. We walked all the way to South Pointe Park at the far end of South Beach before stopping to watch the warm light begin to fade over the ocean. Working our way inland past the ritzy condo towers of South Beach, we hailed a cab and started our ride back to the Epic. It was nice to ride in the taxi and take in the sights of South Beach while giving our feet a rest.

This time we made it back to the hotel before the free wine happy hour was over. Glasses in hand, with a white fish ceviche as a snack, we found comfortable seating on the pool terrace and watched the light change and sparkle off the buildings around us, rising like glimmering pinnacles from the dirty streets below. Total relaxation.

There was only one true way we could top the dinner from the night before, and that was to go to the best Italian restaurant in Miami: Il Gabbiano. Luckily for us it was less than a 10 minute walk along the river from the Epic. Dressed to the nines we made our way, passing the event, complete with Maserati’s on display at Sur y Mar. We made the goof of coming in the back way missing the hostess completely, but once inside, we were quickly seated on the terrace, overlooking the river, and being served like celebrities.

Wow. Yes, we had a handful of wait staff filling glasses, placing napkins in our laps and bringing us succulent goodies. Parmesan from a block the size of my head in 40 year aged balsamic vinegar; the most tasty bruchetta we’d ever eaten, and zucchini chips all as a welcome to wet our palates. Did I mention there was bread too? We must have looked bewildered because our chief waiter told us not to worry about the attention, and enjoy. I opted for a dirty vodka martini while Jen perused the wine list for our next choice. Our appetizer was a sashimi grade tuna tartar with avocado, extra virgin olive oil topped with caviar. Oh wow. As a child I had eaten caviar with my parents, spread across salteens with a touch of Gouldens Mustard. Jen had never had caviar before… I think this mouth watering taste will be hard to top for either of us.

Jen selected a red for each of us by the glass (just couldn’t do another full bottle tonight) having a Montepulciano d’ Abruzzo for herself, and and ordering a barbera for me, but the waiter quickly shook his head disapprovingly, and suggested something better, which it was and neither of us can remember what it was now. Oh love.

The tortellini con pana e prosciutto and Jen’s porcini mushroom ravioli with black truffle oil, fresh shaved parmesan and pepper in a cream and pistachio sauce were amazing. Every bite was a little taste of heaven wonderfully paired with our wine. Even the dash of peas in my dish were like little bursts of flavor. Hold me, I am crying, wow. A new table cloth placed on our table, we chose the tiramisu with mascarpone to share for dessert. Just when we thought it was a night, two cordial glasses of limoncello arrived to finish the meal. A $200+ meal complete we strolled back home. The rest is irrelevant involving TV (Iron Chef) and me falling asleep, my head in Jen’s lap, long before we ever made it to bed. Good night Thursday.

Day 4 means Friday and our last full day here in Miami. We decided to just enjoy the setting and relax, so after our free continental breakfast (yummy fresh fruit, pastries and juice) where I broke down and drank coffee, we headed to the pool and proceeded to spend the entire day there just reading, eating (Cuban panini with plenty of ham, pork, pickle, cheese with fries for me, and burger and fries for Jen), having a drink (frozen margarita and pina colada respectively), and watching the other sun catchers. I can’t say we ever got in the pool, as the breeze made it a bit cool for my tastes, it was still time well spent.

One of my mom and dad’s best friends, Bob Milnes and his wife Martha (who I called, and still do, Uncle and aunt respectively) made it over from Coral Gables to take us out and visit. They took us to one of the best Cuban restaurants in Miami: Versailles. The owner, an early refugee from the Castro revolution left his business and possessions in Cuba to flee to the US with his family. Together they rebuilt the family business into what it is today. Yummy. Black beans a rice, with plantains and Cuban style pulled pork was just the best. And inexpensive too. Yes.

From there Bob and Martha took us to their house (a cute Miami style bungalow) where Bob showed us his huge collection of fire apparatus models, and his portfolio of amazing images. Bob shot for Stars and Stripes in the 60′s, and then Look magazine doing stunning photo essays. He was also the youngest person ever (17) to be given White House press credentials. The pictures of dignitaries and others with the stories to go with them were fascinating. Besides, Bob is a funny guy, so there is a zinger with each story. He was one of my inspirations to get into photography and I was struck by how much I have to learn. Great motivation. Martha’s gorgeous needle work was on display throughout the house and was beautiful. She and Jen hit it off right away.

The evening concluded with Bob’s “Tour of Dead Italians” which included Al Capone and Versace. We drove from their home in Coral Gables to South Beach, through Miami Beach and beyond. The night life was just getting rolling and it was fun to see people all decked out. The entire way Bob and Martha pointed out landmarks and gave us a fun history lesson of the area.

Sun drenched and fully filled with fun for yet another day, we retired to our hotel room and were quickly asleep.

Day 5

Alas, our last day arrived with another wash of warm sunshine. Our time at the Epic had come to an end. Our last continental breakfast on the roof patio of Area 31 was wonderful. Just so relaxing to look out over the city as we dined on fresh pumpkin bread, muffins, and fruit. Bags packed, we headed to the lobby where Farrah, our front desk friend from Tuesday’s arrival met us with a smile. Farrah asked if we had received our card, which was followed by us going “Huh?” Or our champagne and chocolates? “Huh?” It seems Farrah had gotten us a card and had the front desk staff sign it (she even drew balloons on it), and it was supposed to be delivered to us with the goodies. How sweet is that? Except we never received it. She was so apologetic, but asked if she could mail it to us. Ahhh, how sweet indeed. A few pics and we were out the door into Bob and Martha’s waiting Explorer.

Showing how amazing a couple they are, Bob and Martha kindly took us on a tour of the Everglades and a local Indian village. The history and culture of these people was fascinating and our guide, a Miccosukee Indian, was a lot of fun to listen to. When the lecture/tour ended, we walked over to watch the alligator wrestling show. A tall white guy with brass cahones the size of basketballs strode around 3 of these beasts explaining all about them with cautious but comfortable movements. It was only as he dragged, and manipulated one of the beasts that people’s hearts really raced. Impressive indeed. I hope he has comprehensive coverage. After watching the show and spending time watching these modern dinosaurs swim effortlessly through the water we headed out for a quick picnic lunch.

If you think the tour was over, you were wrong. We got to see Coral Gables, West Miami, parts of Coconut Grove, and finally Key Biscayne before we had to make to the airport for our flight. We could not be more grateful for such a wonderful tour. There is no way we would have seen what we did otherwise. Warm goodbyes and off into the airport we went. Leaving on a big jet plane for the 50 degree weather was hard to do. It was time to be home, but we look forward to heading back for more fun in the future.

Epilogue

Simply put, we had a great time. Its hard to believe that it is over and we are home again. Miami was an interesting mix of juxtapositions: haves vs. have-nots, ritz vs. decrepit, natural vs. artificial, warmth/openness vs. insular. Its a great city with a lot to offer and certainly more than a mere five days can offer. Now that we know the lay of the land I’m sure on our next trip we will have even more fun. And there will be another trip, if not for anything else but another order of the oysters, a dirty martini, and a sunset watched together.